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Newfoundland-Labrador Travel

On Wednesday, August 27, 2003 we have a beautiful day to ride the Labrador. We are traveling on the Trans Labrador. Our first stop was L'Anse Amour, the site of the tomb 7500 years old. This was found by a group of students who thought that the pattern of the rock was quite unusual. Under the stone they found a baby wrapped in a dozen years, face down, painted red with a flat stone on the lower back. Artifacts associated with burial is a walrus tusk, a series of stone projectile points and bone, bird bone whistles, paint polishing tools, a pendant of a horn, a harpoon and a decorated toggle Eagle ivory.

On the way is the Amour Lighthouse, the tallest in Newfoundland Province. Even their presence has not prevented the ships of the treacherous coastline. In 1922, HMS Raleigh, a cruiser of 12,000 tons, to avoid an iceberg ran aground. His remains are scattered on the shore. During World War II, two ships collided in the dense fog in the narrow, because there was a warning of a submarine in the area. Ironically, two other ships were lost in the Strait that day too, but in an area different. The Strait of Belle Isle is not only an iceberg alley, but a wreck alley.

On the road to Red Bay archaeologists are still uncovering the first industrial factory whaling world. Founded in the 1540s by Basque fishermen from the area between France and Spain, whale oil was used to illuminate Europe. During its heyday, more than 2,500 whales in Labrador, produced approximately 20,000 barrels of oil per year. Using boats, boat is not a sandwich, that right whales harpooned and brought ashore for processing. At the port in a chair archaeological excavations Island are still in process. Many objects are displayed in the local museum, including pieces of the remains of San Juan, a whaling ship, which lies near the remains of modern Bernier, caught in the same type of storms associated with the coast of Labrador. There are many sites on the continent, but have not been explored because they are on private property. Basque industry died around 1600, due to their involvement with the Spanish Armada.

At Red Bay, the paved road ends. A dirt road leads to the new Cartwright, the opening of the cities for coastal tourism and commercial development. After traveling about 40 km down the road, we parked at night in one of the many gravel pits used for construction of the road.

Today we spent six hours driving the gravel road to Red Bay to Cartwright, a distance of 312 kilometers or 187 miles. The road is approximately ten meters wide and is well prepared will. The speed limit is 70 kph or mph 42. Along the road are sweeping vistas of mountains and pine trees, something like driving the Paso del Norte through the Adirondack Mountains. Approximately 80 kilometers from the intersection of Cartwright Road Goose Bay projected an additional 250 km.

Most cities along the route are bypassed by the new road. There are few services on the same road. Bay Lodge, gas and each items are available in one stop Mona, not diesel. Diesel is available in Port Maria in C & J Automotive Santa Maria is the point shipment for Battle Harbour Island National Historic District. Known as the "unofficial" capital of Labrador, Battle Harbour was an important base for fishing cod in Labrador in the 19th century. The area looks much as it did in 1909. The fishing continued until the 1990's and was later donated to the people. Until the advent of the road this year the island was quite inaccessible except by boat. Today's performers in traditional dress of the tourist guide through a typical village fishing the ages 19 and 20. Accommodations are available for the night.

50 k. from Port Hope Simpson Port Maria is the river Alexis. Restaurants, plazas, fuel and hospital are available there. This is the last vestige of civilization for the next 187 k. There are very few places to turn the road to rest. Most people park on the side of the road. Most of the construction vehicle traffic are over 50 k. stretching.

The roads in Cartwight are in stark contrast to the highway: bumpy and wavy. Other trailers parked in the parking lot ticket office located near the dock.

We spent a quiet day in Cartwright. We boarded the Sir Robert (not James) Bond Ferry at 4:30 for the 7:00 sailing. The boat was filled to capacity, everyone went home on vacation or make the best of a three-day weekend before returning to school or work. The boat is far from luxury. At night, many people who did not have a broom closet size room, sleeping on the deck. The strangest thing about the boat is food service. The cafeteria was open only until 6:30, half an hour before sailing. Only snacks and bar are open during the actual candle. Would Wunderstrand see a mile long white sand beach of reference for the Vikings, a two-day L'Anse aux Meadows. By the time we got to the point the coast and the porcupine, the sun had set. After a night of fun aboard the ferry, which docked in Happy Valley-Goose Bay, NF. We wake a typical day in Labrador: cloudy, damp and cool.

Our first stop was the visitors center, which was closed, only open Monday to Friday. I guess people forget that the influx of people leaving a ship every Saturday 8:00 to 9:00 a.m., which could, as some information about the city. We heard RVs are allowed to park in the parking lot of the city hall parking. But he knew where he was and the map does not show it. We decided to go to Tim Horton, who Dunkin 'Donuts in the U.S., and get the necessary food, a cup of coffee, and some necessary directions. Having achieved so much and some good advice of villagers who had been in the boat with us, went to the door when we heard he exclaimed: "Chicago?" I was wearing my jacket Chicago Heights Road. We turned around and met a couple from Chicago. He worked for Serco, weather at the airbase. After spending some time in conversation, he asked if we wanted a tour of the facilities. The Greek chorus roared a resounding "yes."

Goose Bay Airport was once one of the largest military air bases in North America. U.S. built a mega-track, long enough to land any plane and once employed 16,000 troops based SAC until 1991. In the 1980 a space shuttle using the trail of a runway. We were taken to Tower of weather forecasting and taking into account a culinary tour of the facilities. The installation is divided into three sections: observation, information military, and forecasting. They are responsible for meteorological observation and information from an area of ​​diameter of 240 K, the size of New England less Maine. We could not climb the tower adjacent air. The Royal Air Force, Royal Air Force, was scheduled to start low flying maneuvers in minutes. We had missed the takeoff of a U.S. AWACS plane a couple of hours. We went to the terrace and saw the Tornado fighter jets took off from the runway, systems burners and a loud bang in their path, a very exciting spectacle. Between takeoffs an RCMP plane landed and taxied past us. Other small commercial aircraft also shared the track. In other words, Goose Bay is a living, vibrant. Also the use of the facilities are the German Air Force (Luftwafte) and the wing of Canada 5.

The base is a CANEX, a PX in the U.S.. Anyone can buy here. What makes this unique is the wide selection food available for Labrador. Specialty Items are brought in from Germany and Britain, giving men and women a sense of home. The German club has a restaurant open to local citizens, but is closed to them until after the tourist season in mid-September.

A sunny day in the Labrador. We have seen some hiking trails in a brochure Birch Brook Nordic Ski Club. The trails are well maintained and go through different types of forest ecosystems. A poplar tree bears the scars of a bear tried to climb. At the top of one of the hills, called Lookout Rock, we were able to have an overview view of Lake Melville and surrounding areas. Along the way we saw lots of fresh black bear droppings. We knew it was the black bear, because of the preponderance of blueberries and crackerberries it. Not enough to make jam. NO!

Continued promotion of North West River and Lake Sheshitiu Melville longer twenty-five km lake. The cities are separated by a river and a chasm of cultural differences. Sheshitiu is Innui and a resettlement community of hunter / gatherers northern Canada. They have the land in common and have little concept of private possessions and the permanence of the residences. It is a city that travel through, but I do not stay. Their possessions are supposed to be communal property and therefore are treated as well. On the other side of the river live the Inuit and mestizos. Surprisingly, no restaurant in town, just a grocery store. What the city has to offer is its beautiful beaches and trails. There are also two important museums there: the Museum Labrador and the Labrador Interpretation Centre.

The Museum of Labrador is divided into four sections: the hunter / gatherer lifestyle, Hudson Bay Trading Company Grenfell Medical Mission work among the population, and the issuance of the Interior, 1903 Hubbard. We spent about an hour looking at the exhibits.

The Labrador Interpretation Centre was opened by Queen Elizabeth II in 1997. A modern building with thousands of artifacts of years different peoples solution Labrador. On the screen is a sealskin kayak 100 years, still looked pretty useful. Models of the mannequins were real people of Labrador. The Center also has an auditorium large showing two films on the different sections of Labrador.

On the way home I dropped in Hotel Aurora and took the satellite phone for our trip to Churchill Falls tomorrow. This is a free service, guaranteed by a credit card, on a clock, whereby you can communicate with the RCMP in the case of an emergency.

Before leaving on our trip Goose Bay to Churchill Falls and beyond, had heard of the art work Medical Center in Labrador a few hundred meters from us. The people were right. The artwork is beautiful. Dabinett Diana, an artist from San Juan made a series of painted silk tapestries that represent different aspects of Labrador: birds, marine life, animals and landscapes. These are hung in the cafeteria along with different oil painting scenes Labrador coast, waterfalls, forested mountains. Along the corridors are popular sculptures made by Inuit Eskimo peoples y. All signs in the hospital are written in three languages: English, Innu and Inuit.

With satellite phone in hand, we went to the adventure of 180 miles along the gravel road to Route 500. The speed limit is 70 kph (42 mph). The trail is well maintained, but still raw. We saw two students working on different parts of the road .. Opinions are the black pine forest with aspen, birch, fir and other trees interspersed. The ground cover is mostly caribou Moss, actually a lichen. Near the East River is the caribou ORMA Metchin hunting area. On one side of the road you can see the remains of caribou, have been killed for sport helmets, bones, etc.

We arrived at Churchill Falls after six hours of driving. We average about thirty-five miles per hour. The rest include frequent stops. Not wanted to run through the area, due to the presence of potholes, etc.

We went on a tour of the Churchill Falls Hydroelectric Plant metro. This plant basement is the world's largest, seventh largest producer of electricity worldwide, with eleven turbines to produce enough for 60% of electricity in the province of Quebec and Labrador all. We took an elevator for 900 meters in the rock where the rock is more than three billion (three billion) years old, some of the oldest rocks the world. I can not fathom that number. The trip to Labrador is worth just taking the plant tour, a wonder of the world unknown. The reservoir of water used for production is the size of the province of New Brunswick. It takes three days for water to flow from it to reach underground turbines.

The city ​​itself is one of the few company towns still in existence. All housing and other facilities are owned and operated by CFLCL, except the only gas station, and restaurant complex. The library of a town of only 650 people is quite extensive and makes more than any other library in Newfoundland province, including the San Juan. The city is a great place to work, but not removed. Winters are very difficult: -40 ° C and up to fifteen feet of snow each year. Most people think stay only five years but remain because they fell in love with life on the North. Most people buy trucks, snowmobiles (one for each member family), canoes, boats and other recreational toys for adults. To exit the meeting the same people at work, shopping, praying, etc, to build a hut outside the city. All that is subsidized by the company, including food (the same prices as San Juan), housing and transport costs of cargo.

The guide mentioned about getting a road in the state of roads in the town of Labrador, which completely slipped our minds. We remembered to pick up the phone satellite is coming, so we are very grateful. The road to Labrador City was an adventure. In some places you can go fifty mph, but then almost immediately you striking a series of washboard roads, reducing speed to less than ten miles per hour. There are students out to improve the road, but there is nothing to improve since most of the top layer has been scraped and

We were fortunate during our trip 160 miles. Cover only lost our connection pipe sewage and a broken wine glass. Everything was covered with a thin layer of dust. We wanted an adventure and our wish came true. I could still talk to each another very politely – with a little effort.

We went on tour Wabush and Labrador City, both cities were built in the 60's and early 70's due the iron deposits. First came the railroad Sept-Iles, PQ. Later the road was built from Baie Comeau.

All mine ended Friday tours before Labor Day. Once again, we were a couple of days too late. We did see a couple of explosions. Wabash Mine a set at 12:15. It was small. The mine of the ICC, however, came a great one hour later.

About the Author

John and Maggie Pelley are Geriatric Gypsies. Both of us are retired from the rat race of working. We are full-time RVers, who ran away from home. We began our travels on the East Coast and, like the migrating birds, seek the warmth of the seasons. No more shoveling snow in Chicago. We have discovered volunteering with the National Park System. During our travels we have found that each town has a story to tell: some are more interesting than others. Both of us enjoy good listening music as we go. John has a CD he has recorded of Native American flure music. We have learned that RVing has a learning curve. We want to pass on some advice the help others avoid this trecherous curve. Life is an adventure. We are living it to the utmost.

Cupped and Committed! Canada Geese hunting – Wyoming style

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